(Originally published on
Dazed Digital)
Constantly defying compartmentalisation, Hussein Chalayan is a true cross-disciplinary artist whose work is never hampered by fixed expectations of genre or discipline. Far from it, if the medium fits the philosophy then he runs with it, sparking an endlessly innovative convergence of fashion, performance, installation, technology, anthropology, and more into the trademarlk Chalayan cultural experience. From 8 September, London’s Lisson Gallery hosts one such experience with 'I Am Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)', a multi-room installation deploying audio, video, sculpture and fashion in its deconstruction of Chalayan’s native Turkish musical tradition. Dazed Digital spoke to him about how this all came about.
Dazed Digital: What is the inspiration behind I Am Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)?
Hussein Chalayan: The
idea was to create a new context for this genre of Turkish music which,
in itself an art form, has constantly shifted musical structure due to
the amorphous nature of Turkish culture and history .The idea was to
further extend this shift by putting it into an alien environment in
London at the Lisson Gallery, and also to reframe it to reiterate its
power.
DD: What attracted you to such a strong musical element?
Hussein Chalayan: Music
and sound have always featured in my work. Visual people are ‘poorman’s
musicians’, we all strive to achieve the same affect as music but are
not sure that we ever get there.
DD: How did you begin?Hussein Chalayan: We
recorded the piece from scratch. Sertab Erener, a super well-known pop
star in Turkey, is not known for this genre of music. Part of the thrill
of approaching her, and I think for her accepting, was to create a
momentary shift from her longstanding oeuvre. Her performance has the
might of early chanteuses in the beginning of the 20 the century in
Turkey. We are both more than delighted with it.